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	<title>One Peppercorn &#187; preserves</title>
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		<title>Paysandu potted tongue</title>
		<link>http://onepeppercorn.com/2009/10/paysandu-potted-tongue/</link>
		<comments>http://onepeppercorn.com/2009/10/paysandu-potted-tongue/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 13:34:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sworthen</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[preserves]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://onepeppercorn.com/?p=152</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[H. Rider Haggard is not well-known for product placements (other than for firearms) in his tales of Englishmen having adventures in colonial Africa. This is why mention in Ch. 5 of She (1886) of &#8220;Paysandu&#8221; potted tongue stood out.  His heroes had washed up on the shores of eastern Africa with only preserved goods [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.kirjasto.sci.fi/haggard.htm">H. Rider Haggard</a> is not well-known for product placements (other than for firearms) in his tales of Englishmen having adventures in colonial Africa. This is why mention in Ch. 5 of <i><a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/3155">She</a></i> (1886) of &#8220;Paysandu&#8221; potted tongue stood out.  His heroes had washed up on the shores of eastern Africa with only preserved goods to see them through.<br />
<blockquote>Then, taking shelter from the sun under some trees, we made a hearty breakfast off a &#8220;Paysandu&#8221; potted tongue, of which we had brought a good quantity with us, congratulating ourselves loudly on our good fortune in having loaded and provisioned the boat on the previous day before the hurricane destroyed the dhow.</p></blockquote>
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<p>Paysandu potted tongue sustains the characters for a couple of meals before they are able to start hunting the local wildlife. In the same chapter: &#8220;So we lighted a lantern, and made our evening meal off another potted tongue in the best fashion that we could&#8221;.</p>
<p>Paysandu is a port, and the second largest city in Uruguay. Its potted tongue &#8211; and that of Uruguay generally &#8211; were military field staples at the end of the nineteenth and, <a href="http://www.tommyspackfillers.com/great-war-equipment/ww1-militaria.asp">according to this replica website</a>, and through World War I as well. That tongue had a long history as high-status food for sea voyagers is reflected in the tradition, from long before 1703 until 1915, of giving a newly-commissioned captain in the British Royal Navy a cask of ox-tongues. (J. Macdonald, <i>Feeding Nelson&#8217;s Navy</i>, 121)</p>
<p>While there were other types of containers and preservation methods available, it&#8217;s entirely plausible that Holly and his companions, in <i>She</i>, were eating tinned tongue. <a href="http://www.tommyspackfillers.com/showitem.asp?itemRef=RL130">Delightfully, here is a reproduction of an 1896 label for Paysandu canned ox tongue, as imported to London by McCall &#038; Co.</a> The lively package design would indeed have been an icon of English civility in more ways than one for colonialist travelers washed up after a storm, on the verge of adventure into the unknown</p>
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		<title>mango</title>
		<link>http://onepeppercorn.com/2009/09/mango/</link>
		<comments>http://onepeppercorn.com/2009/09/mango/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Sep 2009 15:26:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sworthen</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[preserves]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://onepeppercorn.com/?p=97</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I first realized that &#8220;mango&#8221; might mean anything other than the fruit, Mangifera indica, when reading John and Karen Hess&#8217;s The Taste of America. This fascinating polemic &#8211; which is largely about why American food is bad &#8211; includes several chapters on the development of cookbooks in America. Amelia Simmons&#8217;s American Cookery (1796) includes the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I first realized that &#8220;mango&#8221; might mean anything other than the fruit, <i>Mangifera indica</i>, when reading John and Karen Hess&#8217;s <i>The Taste of America</i>. This fascinating polemic &#8211; which is largely about why American food is bad &#8211; includes several chapters on the development of cookbooks in America. Amelia Simmons&#8217;s <i><a href="http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/books/book_01.cfm">American Cookery</a></i> (1796) includes the recipe &#8220;To Pickle or make Mangoes of Melons&#8221;. (<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/12815">This cookbook, the first one both written by an American and printed in America, is also available via Project Gutenberg.</a>)</p>
<p>&#8220;Mango&#8221; became a generic word for pickled foods in England and America, at least, thanks to the major means by which mango-the-fruit journeyed from its areas of cultivation in India and South-East Asia. The OED&#8217;s earliest attested use of the word in this sense comes secondhand from <a href="http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=GJ06O5Z9AUsC&#038;dq=P.+King+Life+of+Locke&#038;client=firefox-a&#038;source=gbs_navlinks_s">Peter King quoting John Locke in his <i>Life of Locke</i> (1679)</a> on the riches and varieties of London: &#8220;Mango and saio are two sorts of sauces brought from the East Indies.&#8221; Locke wrote that the worldly edible variety of London comes from Bermuda oranges, Cheshire cheese, and Colchester oysters, in addition to the East Indies. (p. 134)</p>
<p>A mango might be made with walnuts or cucumbers (1699), melons (1728), peaches (1845), musk-melon stuffed with horseradish (1859), or green peppers (1940).  Although its earliest instances were English, by the last two centuries, it seems to have become purely an Americanism. (Now a very obscure one if it is still used at all.)</p>
<p>A mango may not be a pickle any more, but <a href="http://www.word-detective.com/2009/04/24/mango/">it is still, in the U.S., in Ohio and Indiana, a name for green peppers</a>. Pickled <i>Mangifera indica</i> passed its name onto pickles more generically which, by 1948, had passed their name on to the most frequently-found version of them in the region, pickled green peppers; similarly, &#8220;pickles&#8221; have acquired the generic meaning of &#8220;pickled cucumbers&#8221; in the U.S. today.</p>
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